Primp Powder Pout - a Make-Up Artist's Life: Les Rouge


Primp Powder Pout

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Ashley Kay Gifford Make-up & Hair Artist

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Monday, 1 February 2010

Les Rouge

Crimson lips never seem to go out of style. You see it appear again and again on catwalks, in films and even on the lips of Londoners.  I don't there is a celebrity that hasn't tried a bit of rouge now and then, from Sienna Miller to Scarlett Johasson. 

I was a firm believer that I couldn't wear red lipstick. I will happily apply it to others and think it looks amazing but for some reason I always think I look like a child wearing 'mummy's lipstick'. However, rouge lips can be pulled off with the correct shade of red for your complexion, a good outfit whether  and right attitude. I tend to only wear it at night, but with the right outfit anyone can rock this look in the day as well!

Here's my little 'howto' to pull off red lips during the day. 

Here's what I used:
1. Neutral eyeshadow- I.D. bare minerals
2. Bisque eyeshadow by MAC
3. Gorgeous Gold by MAC
4. Soba by MAC
5. DipDown Fluidline (in brown) by MAC
6. Brownette Mascara by MAC
7. Dainty blusher by MAC
8. Barry M (3) lip liner (warm red)
9. Barry M 121 (warm red lipstick)

Here's what I did:

1. After I have cleansed, toned and moisturized, I applied my MAC tinted moisturizer, a bit of correcting concealer and my MAC translucent powder to that my face was primed and ready. 

I applied Neutral Eyes all over my eyelid from lash line to brow. 

I then swept Bisque from my lash line to just over the crease in my eye, but not to the brow. 

After that I applied Gorgeous Gold from the centre of my eye, over the crease and to the outside. 

Last but not least I applied Soba along my lash line, reaching out to the corner of my eye as well as the crease, to add a bit of contouring. I then blended Soba along my lower lid, tucked up right beneath my lashes to help my eyes pop a little. I want to keep the eyes fairly delicate or else it will be too much with heavy eyes and dark rouge lips!

2.  I then grabbed my Dip Down liquid liner pot. I dipped my liquid liner brush and gently coated it, making sure to keep it at a point. You can also use a flat liner brush which can make it a bit easier if you don't have a steady hand!

Once I have run the liner from corner to corner of my eye I think smudged it slightly with a flat liner brush. I prefer softer lines to hard lines during the day. 

3. After the liner has dried, I curled my eyelashes with a lash curler and applied my Brownette mascara. I coated the tops of my lashes and applied it evenly underneath. Depending on my mood and how 'ceeeraazyy' I'm feeling, I will coat the top and lower lashes with mascara, but today I opted out. 

4.  Now that I know how my eyes have turned out, I then applied Dainty blusher to the tops of my cheeks on the cheekbone for a more sophisticated look. 

* I always wait until I've finished my eyes before I put blusher on as it's a safe bet that I may change my mind on the colours I'm using for my eyes and it ends up clashing with the colour I have already applied to my cheeks. Also, depending on how dramatic you end up going with your eyes should help dictate how much blusher you need. No one wants to look like a clown, so best to take it one step at a time. 

5. Now for the lips!!
I moisturized my lips with Carmex as it's my favourite as it hydrates the lips but also brings the blood to the surface, making your lips appear fuller!

I sharpened my lip liner Barry M 3 so that it is clean and can draw a good line. 

*Starting with my top lip I found the top outer point of my 'cupid's bow' and drew a steady line down to the corner of my lips on each side. Then I lined the 'V' of my cupid's bow. 

* On my lower lip I drew a line inward from each corner, then joined the two lines together in the middle. I worked slightly outside of my natural lip line to make my lips appear larger than they are. This is good for girls with quite thin lips.

 **don't try and draw a line from one corner all the way to the other. It's very likely it will be wonky!!!
  ** be careful, you don't want your lips to look ridiculous, just draw slightly outside of the lip line. A centimetre outside the lip line will have you looking like a puffer fish!

6. After I lined the lips and filled them in with lip liner (it helps keep the lipstick in place if applied all over) I then applied my lipstick Barry M 121.

I grabbed my lip brush and gently pressed the lipstick into my lips. I blotted with tissue and applied again. 

*Blotting ensure the lipstick is sealed into the lips and not just sitting on the surface...ready to slide off onto the next glass that touches your lips or the next person you kiss. 

Viola` Rouge pour le jour!

Happy Make-uping! 

Ashley Kay 

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